How to tell if a sale price is really a deal

A big red price with a crossed-out number beside it is one of the most persuasive things in retail. It tells you that you're getting a bargain. Sometimes you are. But the crossed-out price is chosen by the seller, and the percentage off is only as honest as that starting point. Here is how to check whether a sale is genuinely good value.

Question the "was" price

The reference price next to a sale can mean different things:

• The previous selling price: what the store charged until recently. This is the most meaningful.
• The manufacturer's recommended price (RRP or MSRP): a suggested price that many stores never actually charge.
• A "compare at" or "value" price: often loosely defined, sometimes the price at a different store or for a similar item.

Many countries have rules on how reference prices can be used, but enforcement varies, and on marketplaces with thousands of sellers, inflated "was" prices are common. Treat the discount percentage as a claim to check, not a fact.

Check the price history

The best way to know if a price is good is to see how it has changed over time.

• Amazon: free tools such as CamelCamelCamel and Keepa show months of price history for most products, and can alert you when the price drops to a level you choose.
• Google Shopping: for many products, Google shows whether the current price is low, typical or high compared with recent months.
• Your own records: for items you plan to buy during a big sale, write down the price a few weeks before. It's the simplest way to catch a price raised just before a "discount".

Compare at two other stores

Open the same product at two or three other retailers. Use the exact model number: electronics in particular come in many versions, and stores sometimes sell slightly different models during big sales. If the "deal" price is the same as the everyday price elsewhere, it isn't much of a deal.

Work out the total cost

The price on the tag is not the price you pay. Before deciding, add up:

• Shipping: a lower price with $9 shipping can cost more than a higher price with free delivery. See our guide on free shipping thresholds.
• Import taxes and fees on international orders.
• Accessories you need: a printer with expensive ink, or a gadget without a charger.
• Return costs: if returns aren't free and you're unsure about size or fit, factor that in.

Watch out for urgency tricks

Some sales are genuinely time-limited. But certain design tricks exist mainly to stop you comparing:

• Countdown timers that reset when you reload the page.
• "Only 2 left in stock" on items that never seem to run out.
• "27 people are looking at this" messages.
• Permanent sales: a store that is always "70% off" has simply set its prices that way.

If you feel rushed, take that as a signal to slow down. A real deal will usually survive five minutes of checking.

Know when prices are usually lowest

Many products follow predictable cycles. TVs and electronics tend to be cheapest around Black Friday, seasonal clothing drops at the end of each season, and last year's models get cheaper when new ones launch. Our month-by-month guide has the details. If an item is about to be replaced by a new model, waiting can save more than any code.

A two-minute checklist

1. Is the "was" price a real previous price? Check price history if you can.
2. Is the same exact model cheaper or the same elsewhere?
3. What's the total with shipping, taxes and anything extra you'll need?
4. Is there a coupon code that applies on top? Check the store's page on Couponova.
5. Would you buy it at this price if there were no countdown?

If the answers still say "good price", go ahead with confidence. If not, add it to a wishlist, set a price alert and wait for a better moment.